Newsgroups: talk.politics.guns
From: [h--u--e] at [NETSYS.COM] (Hudson Luce)
Subject: Weapons Caching, Revised. Part 4/7
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1993 06:17:37 GMT

A. Burial of Cache Tube: This is the least desirable method of
using the cache tube, as the instruments used for detection
are very advanced, and the possibility of detection and
seizure are highest. As David Josephson writes: 
 
"You touched on an area that I actually have quite some
experience with. I started and for several years ran the
military magnetics division of the company that makes the
current ferrous ordnance locator for the Navy (both the land
portable and diver-held versions) and for ten years before
that ran the airborne magnetic survey systems group of the
same company. The magnetic signature of any long weapon you
cache will be at least as large as that of the pipe, so if you
are concerned about magnetic detection of caches, you have a
separate and very big problem. Likewise the conductivity
anomaly of a plastic pipe buried in more or less conductive
soil will be detectable with most ground penetrating radars
even if the pipe is empty. The barrel of any weapon, or a
cache of ammo, will have a major conductivity anomaly even if
nonferrous and will be detectable to substantial ranges with a
normal hobbyist metal detector." 
 
John De Armond also notes that: "The Whites detector is barely
affected by metal placed almost on TOP of the sensing head.
The sensitivity is directed DOWN." 
 
There are methods to use to get around this, as John De Armond
writes: "You MIGHT be able to seed the soil with ferric
chloride (something the Park Service has done around
Gettysburg in an attempt to thwart relic hunters) in order to
make the soil very conductive but even that is likely to
backfire.  The technician can tell by looking what kinds of
soils are conductive and/or iron-laden and if your soil seems
odd, that might just be all that is needed to bring in the
bulldozers." 
 
Another method is to use lots of decoys: bury in a junkyard or
a dump, where a lot of metallic debris is lying around. There
are lots of places out in the woods where people have dumped
old stoves, washing machines, old cars, and other junk, which
would make a good place for a cache. The trick is to make it
such that the cache tube does not stick out, so that its
magnetic signature is just one of many similar signatures in
the immediate vicinity. The junk pile should be pre-existing -
you shouldn't go out and create your own. It would also be a
good thing if there were quite a few junk piles of this sort
around, so that only a few of them would be used as cache
sites. The tube, in this case, need not be vertical; it can
lie on a diagonal or be horizontal, just as long as it is
well-camouflaged, both with regard to visual appearance and
magnetic signature. The weapons cache should be SURROUNDED on
all sides, except perhaps on the bottom of the cache by other
things which have magnetic signatures. It should NOT be placed
UNDER a bunch of junk, but SURROUNDED on the SIDES, TOP, and
maybe the bottom. In other words, a lot of the junk should be
buried in dirt, gravel, or whatever. Since bulldozers may be
brought in to dig things up, you should make appropriate
provision for this as well. 
 
BY NO MEANS SHOULD YOU BURY A CACHE IN YOUR BACKYARD, 
unless your yard is the city dump, or you live in a mountainous 
rural area, or you have a cave nearby. If you live in a suburban 
area, you might want to take this advice from John De Armond: 
 
"Joe Sixpack's not gonna fight the revolution from the 'burbs
regardless of the number of guns and ammo he buries in his
back yard. The last thing you will be permitted the luxury to
do when the revolution starts is huddle up in your 'burban
bunker and ride it out.  If the government doesn't root you
out, others will.  I've never understood the survivalists'
obsession with bunkering in.  Too many Rambo and Mad Max
movies, I guess.  It has NEVER worked.  The people who survive
will be those who are mobile.  Mobility and huge caches of
materiel are mutually exclusive.  I know that (God help me) if
I am unfortunate enough to be anywhere near an urbanized area
when the fighting starts, all I need is sufficient weaponry to
get started.  I'll simply take whatever else I need from the
sheep. I suggest that anyone who is seriously interested in
surviving and perhaps prospering in a guerrilla warfare
environment would be well served to study Viet Cong tactics.
They did quite a fine job against the same people and
mentality as we would be fighting." 
 
B. Placement in or around reinforced concrete structure: 
This is a distant second best, depending on where the structure
is located. High traffic locations are worse than option A, low
traffic locations are better than option C. Keep in mind that
obvious, and not-so-obvious, sites may be under surveillance,
either by remote camera, or from the air. Same advice as above: 
make sure that there's lots of other magnetic interference from 
reinforcing bars and so on, so the cache won't stick out. Try to bury 
in a place which will stay dry. 
 
C. Placement in dry or wet cave, old mineshaft, well, etc. 
The Best Option...If the cave is far enough below ground (>30 ft) 
there is little need to worry about placement, just make sure you 
know the cave, and can keep the location relatively secret; the cave
should not be well-known by others. For a wet cave, place out
of the flow of water, if any.

(part4b)
Assemble the tubes, with weapons and everything else in them,
AT HOME. Do not do this at the burial site. The tubes, with weapons,
will weigh between 75 and 100 pounds, each. Each weapon should
be buried with at least one, preferably two, loaded magazines. 
These magazines should be enclosed in the plastic bags with the
weapons, attached (but not inserted) to the stock of the weapon,
with nylon cord, one at the shoulder of the weapon, one next to
the receiver and trigger-guard. The tubes have been designed
with the SKS rifle in mind - the clearances are such that RthumbholeS
stocks, and any other kind of stock with protruding grips WILL
NOT FIT. Check your weapons BEFORE you get to the time that you
want to bury them. A standard 12-gauge shotgun will fit fine, as
well. 
 
DO NOT BUNCH UP TUBES. Bury them as far apart as possible, so
that if one is found, the others might be spared. 
 
BURY MOST OF YOUR AMMUNITION IN A SEPARATE PLACE. 
Also, if there is any space left over on the top of the tube, put in 
some MREs and MRE heat packs. They are non-metallic, relatively
inexpensive, and you might appreciate the fact that you did so
when you come to dig the weapons up...If you bury loaded
magazines, put them in the bags with the weapons and desiccant.
 
THINK ABOUT, AND PLAN FOR, WHAT YOU WILL NEED IN TERMS OF
CONCEALMENT WHEN IT COMES TIME TO DIG UP THE WEAPONS. 
Don't bury in an open field, or where you can be easily seen from
afar, without you or lookouts first noticing that you are
being observed. The site should be located so as to take
advantage of relatively unchanging natural landmarks, at least
for the anticipated  life of the cache. The site should be
accessible to people on foot, but inaccessible to heavy
machinery, such as bulldozers. If there are lots of old mines
or caves in your area, these may offer possible cache sites.
Soft ground can be used to deny access, or steep inclines, as
near roadways. Check concealment - you could use a garbage
dump where there are lots of old, heavy iron or steel
household appliances or junked cars. Concealment is relatively
easy in this case. You can also use more natural, undisturbed
sites, especially if the soil is rocky. If you bury the tube
in rocky soil, place a large rock or two in the shaft about
six inches above the tube, using the dirt from the hole to
fill the first six inches above the end cap. Fill the rest of
the hole with dirt, and camouflage the top appropriately.
Disperse any fill dirt that comes from the hole in an area at
least 10 yards distant from the hole; disperse evenly so there
are no piles immediately apparent. Finally, locate escape
routes you can use to escape detection if your lookouts detect
activity near your location. Be aware that the Bad Guys may
have infrared detection devices which detect body heat as well
as night vision glasses, so plan your route accordingly.
Practice site location in areas where you will NOT be doing
the burial - when you go hunting, you can go hunting for
hiding places as well as wild game. 
 
Learn to look at locations with the following in mind: 
	Positions for lookouts, 
	Landmark identification and placement, 
	Accessibility, 
	Concealment,
	Escape routes. 
	
	CAMOUFLAGE THE BURIAL SITE. Take a Polaroid photo of 
the burial site BEFORE you dig the hole. Make the site AFTER you 
are finished look like the site did BEFORE you did anything. BE 
METICULOUS. WHEN FINISHED, BURN THE PHOTO AND SCATTER 
THE ASHES... 
 
	Let Only Those Who NEED TO KNOW, Know About Your Caches.
The less other people know about your buried weapons, the less 
they can tell the Bad Guys. Assume your friends, relatives, and 
neighbors will be interrogated. ONE of them will talk. If they know 
everything, or enough to give the Bad Guys some ideas, your whole
enterprise might be "down the tubes"...

Pat Myrto, at [p--t] at [rwing.UUCP] suggests:

"I would also suggest including a warning regarding supplies, etc.

"Get them locally, ALWAYS pay cash.  No checks.  No Visa, etc.

"Don't get stuff mail order - especially stuff that would finger someone
planing on not being a good sheep.  I speak of some of the books, and
such.  LEAVE NO PAPER TRAILS or as few as possible.  Attention is one
thing one can live without.

"Also, many firearms are (regrettably) on 4473s.  One should dream up a
credible cover story of having sold the weapon long ago to some individual
in East Egypt.   Fake up a receipt, etc and have some friend sign
it with other than their name (so writing is different).  Keep it around
so it ages, won't appear to have been made 3 days ago.  Age in this
context is years, not months.  To be at all credible, this can only be
considered for weapons acquired years ago, NOT recent acquisitions.
Ain't perfect, but a lot better than nothing.

"Folks in urban areas have another problem:  I have this mental picture
of 349583045843058430580348530495830458034895 Joe Sixpaks running out
and burying stuff - a PVC tube every 20 feet within 50 miles of
a city..."

       So far as purchasing by mail order goes, it might be good to use
a fake name, or have one person do some bulk ordering... Be careful about
the paper trail. Use a postal money order, if possible. That way, your
real name doesn't have to be on it, and you can have the goods shipped
to a place where you can get them, also not using your real name. Use
common sense and native ingenuity to figure out how to do things without
leaving a trail of clues.


  FINALLY, NEVER FORGET:
As John De Armond says, 
  "UNDERESTIMATING THE ENEMY IS THE WAY TO DIE.  
When the goon squad comes it will be populated by men just as 
smart as you, as well educated, better trained, with vastly more 
resources and all the time in the world. These are the same goons 
who used tanks and flame throwers on the Davidians, after all."
 
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