From: Paul Adams <[p--l] at [ERC.MsState.Edu]> Subject: [INFO] Grading Guide - Version 1.2 Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 21:04:30 GMT Newsgroups: rec.arts.comics.info Grading Guide _________________________________ Version : 1.2 Date : 1 May 1995 Written By : Paul Adams e-mail : [p--l] at [erc.msstate.edu] Confused about how to grade your comic books? What does "Mint" actually mean and does it even exist? Hopefully this post will help you out. As David Schmidt has pointed out, there are some inconsistencies in the grading guide. Take this into account, and realize that this is a guide, not something set in concrete. Comments, constructive criticism, &c. are welcome. Flames are ignored. Paul Adams -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Changes since version 1.1 include : Corrected error: Instead of "Odd-Center" it should have read "Off-Center". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Table of Contents: I. Grading Procedure II. Nomenclature III. Polybagged Comics IV. Restored Comics V. Grading Golden/Silver Age Comics VI. Summary VII. Sources Consulted -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I. Grading Procedure ____________________ Before delving into the nomenclature of grading, I first want to go over the process or steps of grading. First and foremost of all is to remember that learning how to grade takes time and experience. Before grading a comic that you are thinking about buying, always ask the permission of the seller at first or have the seller open the comic for you. This keeps you from being responsible if any damage does occur and, more importantly, is polite. 1. Take the comic book and lay it on a flat surface out of the bag that it is in. Keep it away from fluorescent lights, sunlight, and smoke. The area needs to well lit though. 2. Look for defects on the front and back cover such as : a) condition of staples, b) any creases, folds or tears, c) the reflectivity of the cover, &c. Note any grade reductions that are needed, remembering that many collectors consider the cover the most important focal point. 3. Look along the spine for damage. Many collectors consider this the second most important focal point. 4. Check the interior of the comic, but avoid opening the comic more than about 45 degrees to keep the stress on the spine minimal. Specifically check for: a) the whiteness of the pages, b) any clipped coupons, c) to see if the centerfold is secure, &c. After grading a prospective comic that you would like to buy, discuss with the seller any differences of opinion that you might have with them. It never hurts to get a second opinion on the grade of a comic. II. Nomenclature _______________ Their are eight nomenclature grades for comics. Corresponding to each grade there is a numeric range. Remember that in grading a comic involves grading the entire comics, not just its cover. Consider _all_ defects. A book in any of the grades must be in its original _unrestored_ condition. Restored comics must be stated as such, and the conditions for grading them are described in section III. Finally the key to correct grading is objectivity. Yes, it is subjective to a point, but subjective with rules. The difference between a F+ and a F may not be much and open to opinion, but the difference between a F and VF is large since the former has yellowish pages while the later has off-white pages. Following are the eight nomenclature grades. Included alongside them is a point rating system that is Overstreets' as well as a percentage for the value of comic based on NM. Briefly, the percentage point scale is a guide as to how much one should expect to pay for a comic based on the Near Mint price. For example, a Fine copy of a comic should be worth roughly half of what a Near Mint copy of that comics is worth. The point scale is (at best) a guesstimate since rarity, the demand for a product, number of issues printed, &c. will affect the price. For example, who will want to pay for a VG copy of a recent copy when a glut of NM copies exist. On the other hand, a Fine copy of a really hot comic may command a price of more than half what a Near Mint copy of the same comic would command. Remember, it is only a guide. Cover price is also not a bottom limit. With the recent glut of comics, I have found many VF to NM comics that are less than a year old in the dollar to 50 cent bin. Again, use it as a guide, not as an absolute. As to Overstreet's point grading scale, called Overstreet Numerical Equivalent or ONE, it is an attempt to assign a numeric grade as well as the name grade (Mint, Near Mint, &c. ). In the same fashion that one might receive a grade of 95/A on a test, a comic might receive a grade of NM95 according to Overstreet. In addition, a third grade by Overstreet has been developed called Overstreet Whiteness Level (OWL). The OWL grade is used to define the average whiteness of the pages of a comic. Thus a grade of NM95/10 means the comic is in Near Mint condition, with a ONE of 95 and an OWL of 10. A grade of FN60/7 means the comic is in Fine condition, with a ONE of 60 and an OWL of 7. Consult the book _The Overstreet Comic Book Grading Guide 1st edition_ for a better understanding of how to use these grading scales. The ONE scale is included here only for reference. Finally, no in-between or combination grades, such as VF/NM, are given. There are several reasons for this. First is that comic can either be VF+ or NM-, but not both at the same time. Second, such a pseudo-grade could be used by the seller to mean that such a comic could be classified by the buyer - depending on the buyers point-of-view - as either a VF+ or a NM-. The problem is that this makes everything subject to the buyer's point-of-view and makes the seller look like a poor grader. Third, most comics graded as VF/NM usually end up being really VF to VF+ instead of NM. Fourth, some may say that that it is an expansion of the 8 point grading scale to one with 14 point scale and thus more accurate. If accuracy is desired, then I recommend using the Overstreet Numerical Equivalent scale instead of the in-between grades which can be confusing. This is not meant to be taken as an attack against those who use these grades. It is just my opinion that they are confusing. Even if they were not, it would be difficult to describe what flaws would put a comic in that grade. Your opinions may differ. Feedback either for or against these views is welcome. MINT ( M or MT : 125% ~ 150% ; Overstreet 100-98 ) Near perfect in every way. Only the most subtle bindery or printing defects are allowed. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Cover inks are bright with high reflectivity and minimal fading. Corners are cut square and sharp. Staples are generally centered and clean with no rust. Cover is generally centered and firmly secured to interior pages. Paper is supple and fresh. Spine is tight and flat. Yes, comics in this grade do exist, but they are extremely rare for one simple reason - this is the most subjective of all the grades. What qualifies as Mint to one person may have a small, almost unnoticeable flaw that downgrades it to Near Mint for someone else. Your typical comic in the pull file or on the newsstand is _not_ in mint condition, but is instead in near mint condition because of these extremely minor flaws. NEAR MINT ( NM :100% , NM- : 90%; Overstreet 97-90 ) Nearly perfect. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Cover inks are bright with high reflectivity and with a minimum of fading. Corners are cut square and sharp with ever so slight blunting permitted. Staples are generally centered and clean with no rust. Cover is well centered and firmly secured to interior pages. Paper is supple and like new. Spine is tight and flat. Tears : None allowed. Corner Bends : Only allowed if hardly noticeable. Spine Stress Marks : Only allowed if hardly noticeable. Staples : Tight, clean, no rust, and centered. Writing : None allowed with the exception of autographs. Rubber Stamps : None allowed. Tape : None allowed. Pieces Missing : None allowed with the exception of tips of pages nicked during the production process. Fingerprints : When noticeable they drop the comic down to Fine. Water stains : None allowed. Browning Paper : None allowed except in the instance of older comics (such as a 12 cent comic) that may have oxidized due to their extreme age. Even then, it must be hardly noticeable. Spine Rolling : None allowed. Off-Center Printing : Only allowed if hardly noticeable. Cover Scuff Marks : Only allowed if hardly noticeable. VERY FINE ( VF+ :80% , VF : 70% , VF- : 60%; Overstreet 89-75 ) An excellent copy with outstanding eye appeal. Sharp, bright and clean with supple pages. Pages and covers can be yellowish/tannish (at the most) but not brown and will usually be off-white to white. Light spine wear is permissible. Most comics from the past ten years or so that have been well taken care of will fall somewhere is this category. Tears : Only very minor tears allowed - 1/8 inch. Corner Bends : Slightly noticeable bends allowed. Spine Stress Marks : Slightly noticeable ones allowed. Staples : Clean, no rust, centered, but may be a bit loose. Writing : None allowed with the exception of autographs. Rubber Stamps : None allowed. Tape : None allowed. Pieces Missing : None allowed with the exception of tips of pages nicked during the production process. Fingerprints : When noticeable they drop the comic down a grade. Solid color cover books or ones with a highly reflective cover have problems with this. Water stains : None allowed. Browning Paper : None allowed except in the instance of older comics (such as a 12 cent comic) that may have oxidized due to their extreme age. Even then, it must be hardly noticeable. Spine Rolling : None allowed. Off-Center Printing : Very slight deviance is allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Only allowed if hardly noticeable. FINE ( F or FN, F+ : 55% , F : 50% , F- 45%; Overstreet 74-55 ) An exceptional, above average copy that shows minor wear but still relatively flat, clean and glossy with no subscription crease or brown margins. Typical defects include: light spine wear, minor surface wear, a light crease, minor yellowing/tanning to interior pages. Compared to a VF, cover inks are beginning to show a significant reduction in reflectivity but is till highly collectable and desirable. Tears : Only very minor tears allowed - 1/4 inch. Corner Bends : Minor noticeable bends allowed. Spine Stress Marks : Minor noticeable ones allowed. Staples : Clean, no rust, centered, but may be a bit loose. Writing : Very neat, small penciled prices on the interior page of a comic allowed. Otherwise, not allowed. Rubber Stamps : Allowed only in the case of international price stamps or small blue star which shows that it was sold at a Stars & Stripes newsstand at a military base. Tape : None allowed. Pieces Missing : Only if less than 1/8 inch square. Fingerprints : Fingerprints are allowed, but excessive or ugly fingerprints can drop the grade to Very Good. Water stains : None allowed with the exception of stains on the back cover due to high humidity. No wrinkling or warping allowed. Browning Paper : Very light browning is allowed, but no brittleness. Spine Rolling : Allowed only if very minor. Off-Center Printing : Slight deviance is allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Light scuffing is allowed, but is minor. This shows up mostly on comics with dark covers. VERY GOOD ( VG+ : 40% , VG : 35% , VG- 30%; Overstreet 54-35 ) The average used comic book, that has not been taken care of by proper handling and bag & boarding, most commonly found. The comic shows moderate wear but eye appeal has not been reduced to the point that it is not desirable. One or two minor markings on the cover or minor spine roll are allowed. Lightly creased along spine or extremities, subscription crease, loose centerfold, or minor chip or piece missing allowed. Tears : Several minor tears or one major tear allowed. Corner Bends : Allowed. Spine Stress Marks : Always allowed and is very evident. Staples : Clean, no rust, centered, but may be loose, but still must be joined to all the pages. No tearing allowed. Writing : Very neat, small penciled prices on the interior page or cover of a comic allowed. Otherwise, not allowed. Rubber Stamps : International price stamps and small blue star stamps are allowed. Name and store stamps are allowed only if on back cover and done neatly. Crooked stamps drop it a grade. Tape : None allowed. Pieces Missing : Allowed if smaller than the size of a postage stamp and the comic is not too worn. Otherwise a worn comic with a piece that size missing would be Good. Fingerprints : Fingerprints are allowed, except in the case that they are caused by an external agent such as oil on someones fingers. Water stains : Only a small, single drop, water stain allowed and only then if hardly noticeable. Browning Paper : Browning is allowed, but no brittleness. Spine Rolling : Allowed only if very minor. Folds : The cover may have some folds, but the comic must not have been bent in half. Off-Center Printing : Allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Allowed, but is minor. GOOD ( G+ : 25% , G : 20% , G- : 15%; Overstreet 34-15 ) This comic has all pages and covers, although there may be small rips or tears. Commonly creased, scuffed, abraded, and soiled, but books in this grade are completely readable. Paper quality is low, but not brittle. Tears : Tears are allowed short of the cover being torn in half. Corner Bends : Evident. Spine Stress Marks : Spine can have some tears, usually around the staples. Tears must be less than 1/4 inch. Staples : Loose staples with some rust allowed. Writing : All writing allowed except in excessive cases where large magic markers are used or if it detracts from the story in some way. Rubber Stamps : Allowed unless excessive. Tape : Allowed unless excessive such as duct tape. Pieces Missing : 2 inch square pieces on cover, 3 inch square on back, and 1 inch square from interior corners allowed. Clipped coupons from back cover allowed, but not from interior. Note, this is not the same as coupons used to redeem "free" comic books. Fingerprints : Allowed. Water stains : Allowed unless excessive. Browning Paper : Browning is allowed, and slightly brittle. Spine Rolling : Allowed. Folds : Allowed. Off-Center Printing : Allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Allowed. FAIR ( FR : 10%; Overstreet 14- 5 ) Very heavily read and soiled, but still complete. Damaged beyond collectability for most collectors, brings 30 to 50 percent of the good price. Tears : Tears are allowed short of the cover being torn in half. Corner Bends : Evident. Spine Stress Marks : Spine can have tears, usually around the staples. Tears must be less than 1 inch. Staples : Loose staples with rust allowed. Writing : All writing allowed except in excessive cases where large magic markers are used or if it detracts from the story in some way. Rubber Stamps : Allowed unless excessive. Tape : Allowed unless excessive such as duct tape. Pieces Missing : Missing pieces allowed, but the story is still readable. Clipped coupons allowed. Fingerprints : Allowed. Water stains : Allowed unless excessive. Browning Paper : Browning and brittleness allowed. Spine Rolling : Allowed. Folds : Allowed. Off-Center Printing : Allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Allowed. POOR ( PR : 5%; Overstreet 4 - 1 ) Sufficiently degraded so as to have little or no collector value. Often severely stained, abraded, defaced, or damaged beyond readability. Tears : Allowed short of the book being torn in half. Corner Bends : Evident. Spine Stress Marks : Spine has tears. Staples : Loose staples with rust allowed. Writing : All writing allowed. Rubber Stamps : Allowed. Tape : Allowed. Pieces Missing : Allowed. Fingerprints : Allowed. Water stains : Allowed. Browning Paper : Brown and brittle. Spine Rolling : Allowed. Folds : Allowed. Off-Center Printing : Allowed. Cover Scuff Marks : Allowed. III. Polybags _____________ Will taking a comic out of its polybag reduce the value of the comic? The answer is a simple no. The reasoning is simple. If the comic is left in the bag and the bag turns yellow and slowly damages the comic, who will want to buy it? Another way of looking at this is provided by John Danovich, an editor for Hero Illustrated. Take a comic that the retailer is selling as "mint in the bag", and buy it. Later, try and sell that book back to the retailer as the comic by itself and the bag by itself. The comic will be bought for the right price. Try and videotape the expression on the retailer's face when you ask him to buy the bag. The point is, the bag, box, or package is worthless *without* what it holds. Therefore, it stands to reason that it is worthless period. Now if a trading card or some such item is enclosed in the bag, be sure to keep it as some dealers consider it part of the comic. If you are really intent on maintaining the value of the comic and still think that the bag is worth something, cut away enough of the top of the bag to take your comic out. Do not tear the bag; use a razor blade and cut it as close to the seam as possible. Store the comic in a bag with a backing board. Store the promotional item and the polybag with the comic, but on the other side of the backing board so that they will not damage the comic through movement or degradation. Overstreet's official policy on polybagged comics is to grade the comic whether or not it is still sealed in their polybag. They do recommend, as I mention above, to keep all of the original manufactured products together. IV. Restored Comics ___________________ Many comics may have had minor to major restoration work performed on them. The more valuable a comic, the more likely that it has been restored. A restored comic is never worth as much as the same comic in unrestored condition. That is, a restored Suicide Squid #1 in Very Fine condition is not worth what an original Suicide Squid #1 in Very Fine condition is worth. Comic books that have been restored have what is known as an _apparent grade_. For example, the aforementioned restored Suicide Squid #1 has an apparent grade of Very Fine. Restored books should be stated as such by the seller prior to the sale. As not all sellers are honest, the buyer should beware. Things to look for when grading a book have been mentioned in section II, but a few more need to be mentioned here. If you are grading a book to buy, check to see if the pages have been bleached or whitened, the pages or cover trimmed, spine or tear reinforcement, glue, replaced staples, wrinkles pressed from the cover, recoloring, and reglossed covers. V. Grading Golden/Silver Age Comics ___________________________________ When grading older books, more damage is allowed to occur in each grade simply because of time. Whereas a few dings on a 50 year old comic might not cause it to drop from Mint to Near Mint, it would for a more recent comic. For example, small writing and date stamps are allowed in the Near Mint grade, when talking about older comics. For recent comics, this is not true. It is recommended that you do not use this guide for older books, nor rely solely on your own grading skills. Consult professionals for proper grading, always get a second opinion, and beware of restored comics being sold as unrestored. VI. Summary ___________ The key to proper grading is objectivity and a proper understanding of the grading scale. Remember to grade the entire comic, not just its cover. Also a comic may be downgraded for either a combination of flaws or just a single but major flaw. If buying an expensive comic, then look for signs that it has been restored. For articles on restoring comics or grading comics, check out _The Overstreet Comic Book Grading Guide 1st edition_. It contains pictures of comics before and after they are restored which is impressive. The book also contains more information on the grading of comics as well as picture examples. VII. Sources Consulted ______________________ Danovich, John, ed., "Hero Compares/Contrasts Comic Supplies", _Hero_ _Illustrated_ Volume 1 number 3, Warrior Publications, Lombard, IL, Sept. 1993. "Mile High Comics' Grading Standards", _Mile High Features_, Mile High Comics, Denver, CO, 1993. _Overstreet Comic Book Monthly #9_, Overstreet Publications, Cleveland, Tennessee, 1994. Wilson, Mark; Overstreet, Robert M. and Carter, Gary M., eds. "Comic Book Restoration", _The Overstreet Comic Book Grading Guide 1st edition_, Avon Books, New York, New York, 1992. Thanks to the Following Contributors! _____________________________________ Dave Jeitner : [soc 3] at [midway.uchicago.edu] Douglas T. Wilson : [WILSOND 9049] at [cobra.uni.edu] Chris Ragaisis : [c--ga--i] at [nyx10.cs.du.edu] Jonathan Lupa : [j j lupa] at [vnet.IBM.COM] Tom Karr : [t--ed--n] at [access.digex.net] David A. Schmidt : [s c hmid] at [euler.math.rpi.edu] John Locke : [j x xl] at [cs.nps.navy.mil] Derek Santos : [d--n--s] at [cs.bu.edu] Jeff Mason : [j r m] at [elm.circa.ufl.edu] -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright 1994, 1995 by Paul Adams. All rights reserved, but no harm askin' -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- \ ___ / Paul Adams \ /___\ / [p--l] at [erc.msstate.edu] ____________\___/__.__\___/____________ YF-22 \ \ / / \__/\___/\__/